Being Green: What Does it Mean?

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, April 2011

Judging by the increasing number of salons marketed as “natural,” “organic” and “eco-friendly,” the pressure to appear “green” must be immense. My salon appears green; I painted both the exterior and interior beautiful, complimentary shades. But besides being my favorite color, and in the context of a nail salon, what exactly does “being green” mean? I don’t ask this question facetiously; in fact, I struggle with the entire concept. While the intent may be admirable (protecting the environment, conserving resources, preserving health, etc.), this concept has been distorted and abused through misinformation and fear mongering. Now, more than ever, clients ask questions like, “Is your polish toxic?,” while some manufacturers go so far as to promote their 1`products as “chemical-free.” How do we nail professionals differentiate fact from fiction? And how do we reconcile our responsibility to protect our clients with a desire to protect the environment?

Lacking a definitive standard based on empirical evidence, the concept of being green deserves careful consideration. This requires knowledge beyond the basic education and training most manicurists receive. That’s why I’ve enlisted three of the nail industry’s most respected chemists, Paul Bryson, Ph.D., Jim McConnell and Doug Schoon to provide their scientific expertise. 

All three experts agree that manicurists need to better understand the structure and function of nails. In brief, Doug Schoon advises, “Be a knowledgeable professional.” Although beauty school would be the obvious and ideal place to learn this information, that apparently does not happen for many students. As Schoon points out, “Most nail techs can't even name the parts of the nail . . . How can you address concerns when you don’t understand the basics?”

Furthermore, manicurists “need to educate themselves on the products they use,” emphasizes Jim McConnell. Professional nail products contain chemicals that have been proven safe when used according to manufacturer instructions. That being said, you should never ingest nail products, rub them into your eyes or otherwise use them inappropriately. Any manufacturer claiming that its products don’t contain chemicals is simply being dishonest. Bryson reminds us of basic science, “It's impossible to make a product that is ‘chemical free,’ since everything around us - water, air, plants, foods, etc. - is composed of chemicals.” Likewise, any manufacturer claiming better/safer products because they’re made from some unlikely, yet more “natural” ingredients, cannot be trusted. McConnell expresses his frustration when mentioning a UV gel product supposedly made from seaweed.

Despite decades of safe use, nail products still raise safety concerns, leading to questions like “What’s the most dangerous chemical used in nail salons?” Acetone is a common response. But contrary to what many manicurists and consumers believe, “acetone is one of the safest solvents that we can work with in the salon,” according to McConnell. Bryson describes acetone emphatically as “the safest and greenest polish remover! All the acetone substitutes either produce more photochemical smog, and/or are more hazardous. ‘Non-acetone’ polish remover has long been dishonestly marketed as a safer product, but in fact the reverse is true . . ." Bryson singles out methyl acetate as “the only non-acetone polish remover solvent still legal in California,” but warns that it “could cause death or permanent blindness if a child drank it! The few companies that sell it use a bitter tasting additive to prevent accidental ingestion."

What about formaldehyde in nail polish? Schoon addresses this controversial chemical in a must-read article, The Formaldehyde Myth (available at www.schoonscientific.com). “Formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and never has been,” he states. Bryson acknowledges the understandable confusion about formaldehyde: “one of the main resins in nail polish is called ‘Tosylamide-Formaldehyde Resin,’ which despite the name, is not the same chemical as formaldehyde. Specialty nail hardeners are another story - they contain a small, US FDA-permitted amount of a non-volatile, reaction product of formaldehyde and water - more properly known as methylene glycol - or they won't work. Confusingly, until recently, this substance had to be called ‘Formaldehyde’ on the label, which wrought much customer confusion as they wrongly assumed that nail hardeners posed a cancer risk.”

Schoon further cautions against allowing ourselves and our clients to think in terms of what’s most dangerous, “If you remove an ingredient, then the next one on the list becomes the ‘most,’ until you have no chemicals to list. It is more important to ask, what should we do in nail salons to ensure that all products are used safely?” 

The following suggestions will help you create a healthier salon environment:

• Protect the health and safety of yourself, your coworkers and your clients.
• Keep your salon clean.
• Follow applicable laws (state board, OSHA, etc.).
• Install an effective ventilation system.
• Read product labels and follow manufacturer’s instructions.
• Learn about product chemistry.
• Read product labels and follow manufacturer’s instructions.
• Obtain MSDS on every product.
• Store your products properly.
• Limit your exposure by wearing gloves.
• Wear protective eyewear.
• Utilize disposable products when necessary.
• Dispose of your waste safely.
• Make the most of the resources you use.
• Invest in bulk quantities.
• Encourage manufacturers to reduce packaging waste.
• Simplify your salon packaging and marketing materials.
• Purchase adequate liability & property insurance.

For more information about nails, nail products and salon safety, read Doug Schoon’s book, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry, Second Edition (Milady, 2005) and visit the website, www.schoonscientific.com for relevant articles and publications from the Nail Manufacturers Council.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

Competitive Pricing for Salon Success

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, March 2011



“Nowadays, people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.”
Oscar Wilde


Spend any time in the beauty industry and you’ll soon recognize the first words of most potential clients: “How much is a (insert name of service here)?” Like most nail professionals, you instinctively answer with the price. But no matter what that number, the answer will be wrong. Why? Because without context, a mere number is essentially meaningless. It assumes that all services are created and delivered equally from salon to salon, and it cannot possibly capture the nature and quality of your service. Clients cannot appreciate the value of your work when they don’t understand what they’re paying for. It’s your responsibility to communicate that value.


Whether just starting your salon business, or reinventing an existing one, the decisions to be made can be overwhelming. One of the most important is how to structure and price your services. Overpricing will discourage potential clients initially, while underpricing will discourage you eventually. The only thing more frustrating than clients taking advantage is the realization that it’s your fault. Ideally, your service prices will strike just the right balance between being competitive (attractive to potential clients) and
providing adequate compensation (enabling you to earn a living doing what you love . . . nails!).


Important decisions related to service pricing require doing your research, but not the kind that you might expect. How many times have you been advised to contact other salons and ask about their pricing to determine your own? That’s just as useless as when a potential client asks the same question. If you want to make the common and misguided mistake of competing on price, then contact other salons. But what’s the point unless you also find out what their salon costs are? Few salon owners would be
willing to share that information, even if they knew.


Doing your research means accounting for your own costs:

• Lease
• Equipment and supplies
• Utilities (telephone, water, gas and electric, etc.)
• Outside/professional services (payroll, accounting, laundry, etc.)
• Licenses (business and professional)
• Insurance
• Taxes (payroll, sales, property, etc.)
• Marketing/advertising
• Education
• Professional memberships
• Payroll, or your time if you work independently

These costs vary so widely from salon to salon that it’s imperative that you do this for yourself, and make every effort to reduce these costs whenever possible.


Even with this information, you’re not prepared to make good decisions. Considering that income generated from nail services depends on the active participation of service providers, time must be accounted for before pricing can be determined. The time required to complete the service should be minimized as much as possible to avoid wasting your time or your client’s. To maximize time (your greatest resource!), your services need to be structured deliberately to achieve the desired results: the
procedures organized step-by-step and the products and tools selected for each step. Every procedure, product and tool should be evaluated for its safety, efficiency and cost-efficiency.


For every service, you need to calculate the product cost, including both disposables (files, gloves, nail wipes, etc.) and consumables (polish, lotion, acetone, gel, etc.). Once calculated, that number. along with the time required to complete the service can be used in the following formula:


Product Cost + $1/minute = Service Price (Round up to the nearest $5 increment.)


For example, our pedicure costs $3 in product and takes 45 minutes. Our service price is $3 + $45 = $48, but rounded up to $50. The product cost percentage is $3/$50 = 6%. Ideally, the product cost should be lower than 10%; otherwise, that service may not be worth offering.


Before you question the feasibility of earning at least a $1/minute, let’s discuss. For nail professionals who believe that clients in their particular area won’t pay $1/minute, ask yourself what the standard hourly rate is for massage. Given your diverse skills and significant investment in education, equipment and supplies, your work should be worth at least the equivalent of that of a massage therapist. And for nail professionals who don’t think they can charge $90 for a pink and white backfill just because it takes 90 minutes, they’re right. What’s taking so long? Every service offered should be doable in an hour or less. Developing your skills and being more efficient will reduce the time required and move you closer to that $1/minute minimum.


To market your services, publish enticing service descriptions that detail what’s included, the time allowed and the price. Your salon policies (appointments, cancellations, payment options, etc.) also need to be explained in writing. Despite the accessibility of the internet, salons still need something tangible to present to potential clients, so a brochure is a must. When asked about your service prices, whether in person, by email or phone call, be prepared to ask some questions to determine which service, if any, best meets the client’s needs and to focus on its value, not the price.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.

What Should be Hot for 2011

Article Published in Stylist Magazine, February 2011


It’s hard to predict where the nail industry will trend. Years ago, who would have anticipated the incredible popularity of gel polish, or the total absurdity of fish pedicures? The fact that gel polish has become a trend, while fish pedicures have not, suggests that some changes are embraced and others rejected for a reason. When evaluating a new product, service, technique or business practice, I consider whether it advances my professionalism, provides a workable solution to an existing problem and serves as a safer, more efficient and cost-effective alternative to my present choices. These criteria help me make informed decisions for my own salon, but does not make me any more prescient. So rather than attempt to predict trends for the nail industry, here’s my wish list for 2011.

1. Despite the expedience and cost savings associated with using dirty files, tools and foot spas, nail professionals will take responsibility to follow the health and safety rules. Being “clean” will become the norm, rather than the anomaly it is currently. Voluntary compliance will protect consumers, increase our professionalism and reduce the need for enforcement. Our state boards have enough to do without the added burden of dealing with licensees who know better, but choose to act irresponsibly.
   
2. Consumer outreach will reinforce the value of our training and licensure, so that consumers will demand quality services from licensed professionals in licensed establishments only. Unlicensed activity will decrease and average service prices will increase when consumers no longer compromise their health and safety for low prices.
   
3. Beauty schools will fulfill their mission of education by hiring competent instructors, providing an adequate supply of professional products and preparing students for success beyond licensure. The significant number of hours spent in school will be utilized optimally to train students on current techniques and best practices, including proper sanitation. Students will have ample opportunity to perform services on real clients rather than on plastic practice hands.
   
4. In addition to teaching technical skills, beauty schools will teach students about the legal rights and responsibilities associated with being a salon owner, an employer, an employee and/or booth renter. Salon owners will compensate their employees legally or treat their booth renters as the independent businesses they are, whichever is applicable. More professionals will protect their business/financial interests with the appropriate insurance coverage (liability, property, workers’ compensation, etc.).
   
5. Beauty professionals (including unlicensed salon owners) will claim ALL their income and pay their taxes. Failing to do so demonstrates a blatant disregard for the law and disrespect for the beauty industry. Unfair competition undermines our professionalism and our industry can longer afford to be any part of the underground economy.
   
6. Nail professionals will eagerly participate in continuing education, whether it’s required or not. Given the inconsistent (and that’s being generous) quality of beauty school education, all post-licensure education could be considered remedial. But given the immediacy and accessibility of information, particularly via the internet, there’s no excuse for being uninformed. In addition to accessing industry sources, you’ll read consumer sources to be aware of (mis)information your clients will undoubtedly encounter. Your clients should never be telling you what’s new; that’s your job.
   
7. Participation in beauty shows and networking events will reach record numbers, much to the delight of event organizers, manufacturers and educators who invest hundreds of thousands of dollars in showcasing their products. While attending these events, beauty professionals will conduct themselves appropriately, including dressing the part.
   
8. Rather than sensationalize the negative, misrepresent the facts and scare consumers, the media will rely on beauty industry experts when presenting stories about professional nail care. If a story can’t be done without satisfying the journalism standards of accuracy, fairness, accountability, etc., it shouldn’t be done at all because we don’t need that kind of publicity.
   
9. The words “spa,” “natural,” “organic” and “green” will lose favor as consumers and beauty professionals will realize how overused and meaningless these words have become. Giving too much credence to these words may be hazardous to your credibility, if not your health.
   
10. Manufacturers will present their products with integrity, rather than mislead with buzzwords and marketing speak. As product consumers, we have the right to know what ingredients products contain and a responsibility to use them safely and effectively. We should know where the science ends and the marketing begins, and not cross that line with our own clients.
    
11. Manufacturers of professional products will renew their commitment to salon professionals, through education, research and inventory control. If the term “professional” means anything at all, it suggests that these products are of a higher quality and that professionals use these products in salons to achieve optimum results. If it’s only a marketing term to appeal to consumers, then it’s meaningless.

Most trends within the nail industry start in the salon, so start your own trend for 2011 by being the best nail professional you can be.

By Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D.